A journey through the heartland of Sindh is not just a road trip—it’s a passage through time, culture, and the soulful rhythm of a land rich with heritage. Our expedition began in Rahim Yar Khan, where I, along with Hammad Khan and six fellow travelers, set out on a voyage that would take us deep into the enchanting Thar Desert.
The motorway carried us swiftly toward Sukkur, where the transition from Punjab’s plains to Sindh’s vibrant landscapes was both dramatic and serene. After crossing the Rohri Bypass, rural Sindh came alive. Green date palm orchards shimmered under the golden sun, swaying gently in the warm breeze. It was the kind of view that makes you pause—nature’s postcard to the soul.
Our first stop was modest but memorable: the Quetta Rangeen Hotel on the Sukkur Bypass. There, we sipped steaming kadak chai and savored crisp parathas—simple yet symbolic of Sindh’s heartfelt hospitality.
Echoes of the Past at Kot Diji
Soon, we found ourselves standing before the majestic Kot Diji Fort in Khairpur. Built in the 18th century and known as the “Crown Jewel of Khairpur’s Mirs,” the fort’s high ramparts, sweeping views, and quiet dignity told silent stories of Sindh’s regal past. It was a window into an era where grace and grit walked hand in hand.
Further on, we stopped at Mehrabpur, where our gracious host, Azam Jatt Sahab, served elegant tea before we continued toward Driver Hotel Khepro for a lunch of spicy Sindhi biryani and kebabs. Each bite was a celebration of Sindh’s rich culinary tradition.
Into the Desert’s Embrace
As dusk settled, our convoy rolled deeper into the Thar, through rain-slicked roads and lush farmland dotted with villages like Nani Shah, Dhoro Naro, and Chor Cantonment. We finally reached Amarkot, the historic desert town, just as the rain tapered off. There, at Momin Khan Hujra, a traditional Pashtun guesthouse nestled in the heart of Thar Bazaar, we found rest and refuge.
Later that night, we were welcomed by Shaukat Udaipuri, a prominent local figure, into his home in Udhaipuri Para. Dinner was a feast of flavors—sag, kadhi, biryani, broasted chicken, and rich mutton karhi. Between shared stories, card games, and sweet paan under a starlit sky, it was a night that embodied the warmth of Sindhi culture.
A Morning of Majesty
The next morning began with a lavish breakfast at Naeem Udaipuri’s home: sweet loli, fresh yogurt, halwa puri, butter, honey, nihari, and paye—a spread as nourishing as it was festive.
We then explored the magnificent Amarkot Fort, a Mughal-era marvel. Its museum, brimming with history from Akbar’s birth to the timeless tale of Amar-Marvi, featured life-sized statues in traditional dress and mechanized displays of ancient crafts. From the terraces, the desert stretched endlessly, like a cinematic dream.
At noon, we joined locals for Friday prayers at Amarkot’s elegant Jama Mosque. Its blue tiles and serene ambiance created a spiritual connection that transcended language and background.
Farewell with a Promise
Before leaving, we strolled through Amarkot’s bustling bazaars, where we admired handcrafted Ajrak prints—deep-hued symbols of Sindhi identity. As we packed our souvenirs, it wasn’t just fabric we carried—it was the memory of open-hearted people and a culture steeped in grace.
Our next destination: Gogasar and Nagarparkar. But that’s a story for another time.
The Thar Desert is not just sand and silence—it is a living, breathing civilization. It is folklore whispered on the wind, it is heritage etched in stone forts, and it is hospitality served in a cup of roadside chai.
To our hosts, especially Shaukat Udaipuri, who welcomed us with such warmth—thank you.
Until we meet again, goodbye Thar.
