SKARDU: In a historic and awe-inspiring feat, Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has etched his name into the annals of mountaineering legend by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks—each towering over 8,000 meters—without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Sirbaz achieved this milestone on the morning of May 18, when he successfully reached the summit of Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters), the world’s third-highest mountain, located in Nepal. The achievement was confirmed by Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
What makes this achievement even more extraordinary is that Sirbaz ascended Kanchenjunga in full alpine style—a purist method of climbing that relies entirely on self-sufficiency, without fixed camps or external oxygen. It’s a bold, minimalist approach that tests both physical endurance and mental fortitude.
“Sirbaz’s journey is not just a mountaineering record—it’s a decade-long tale of grit, passion, and sacrifice,” said Haidri. “Climbing all 14 eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen or pre-set camps is an unmatched triumph in Pakistan’s mountaineering history.”
Born in the mountainous region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Sirbaz Khan has long been considered one of Pakistan’s premier climbers. His latest triumph places him among a select global elite of climbers who have summited all 8,000-meter peaks without artificial oxygen—an accomplishment that combines elite physical conditioning, exceptional skill, and unyielding resilience.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan has declared Sirbaz a national hero, calling his accomplishment a “torch of inspiration” for future generations of climbers and adventurers.
This historic summit also shines a spotlight on Pakistan’s rapidly growing profile in the global mountaineering scene. With the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges home to several of the world’s most challenging peaks, climbers like Sirbaz Khan are helping turn the country into a beacon for high-altitude excellence.
